This hidden gem on the Liguria coast straddles the banks of the Centa River. Once an important port town, this medieval city became a backwater after being subdued by the Genoese and having their port destroyed. But Albenga escaped the rapid development of resorts that other towns on the Ligurian coast have experienced, holding onto its medieval core and charm, and of course, beaches a short walk from the charming walled center.
Albenga is nearly 2,500 years old founded by a Ligurian tribe. Three hundred years later, conquering Romans shortened the town's original name, Album Ingaunum, which slowly evolved into Albenga by the Renaissance. The town's main source of income was its lucrative port which continued through the medieval period. The Centra river silted in parts of the city (evidenced by the distance between the baptistry floor and the modern street level) and has changed courses over the city's lengthy history. When Albenga was subued by the Genoese, the already silted port was buried and in many ways Albenga remained frozen in time.
The gem of Albenga is its baptistry. Erected between the fifth and sixth centuries, it is a rarity in Italy. The outside is built in a decagonal plan (10-sided) while the interior is octagonal. You must decend down to the baptistry as the river has raised the city level substantially over the past 1,500 years. The architectural elements were highly included by Milanese as the town depended on the diocese until the mid-12th century. Because of the buildings age and its plethora of influences, the baptistry has some really unique features. One of the more unique features of the building is the perforated window. For those who've visited the incomparable Alhambra in Granada, this version seems quite plain, but the concept is the same. A single slab of stone is cut to create openings to allow light to pass through and fitted into the window space. The main window in the mosaic niche dates from the paleochristian period and the the other two examples are Lombardian.
The mosaic in the arch is a rare and fantastic piece of early Christian art, likely installed in the early sixth century. It remains a vivid blue all these centuries later and the words are clear enough to be discerned readily. Note the chrismon, the cross of the X and P that represent Christos in Greek and the Alpha and Omega indicating the eternity of Christ. The Chi-Ro is encircled by twleve white doves indicating the twelve apostles. The lunette, the vertical wall into the arch, features a jeweled cross and two lambs on a meadow. The scene indicates the faithful looking towards Christ while the writing outside the vault is a series of saints' names.
In additional to the mosaic, the original immersive baptistry sits in the middle. The font has an octaganol interior with a star-shaped exterior. There are the remains of eight columns that might have supported a brick canopy. Beginning in 2000, the baptistry began to be used again for liturgical purposes. To the right from the central niche is the marble font that is currently used today and dates from the late fifteenth century.
The baptistry is accessible through a joint ticket with the diocese museum. The museum houses many sacred and secular works from the last millenia of Albegna's history as well as artifacts and amphora recovered during restoration and archeological works from the town. Its worth a visit, especially as it is in included with the bapistry ticket, and does have some signage in English. For supreme art and history buffs, guided tours are available, but must be prearranged by emailing museodiocesano@diocesidialbengaimperia.it. The museum is open every day 9:30a to 1p and 2:30p to 6:30p, closed Monday mornings.
The coastal position moderates Albenga's climate. The narrow, stone streets of the old town are cooled nightly by sea breezes, and despite oppressive summer heat in the nearby countryside, the city itself remains pleasant. If the evening breezes aren't enough, there are managed and unmanaged stretches of the beach easily accessible by a short walk from the medieval core. Its a fine sand beach with a mix of gravel. The best bits are close to the mouth of the Centa. Fair warning, the beaches can get very crowded during high season so plan accordingly.
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