Despite being France's third largest city in France, Lyon is widely ignored by tourists. It's nearby neighbor, Vienne, is a virtually unknown city of 30,000 people. But the combination gives an amazing taste of French cuisine, history, architecture, and arts in many ways on par with Paris and for a much lower price tag with few crowds.
Lyon & Vienne's Roman Roots
From the third century BC, the area was inhabited by the Allobroges with Vienne being the foremost settlement. Romans attempted to subdue Vienne in the first century BC, but the natives forced them out. Exiles founded Lugdunum (Roman Lyon) in 43 BC at the confluence of the Saône and Rhône Rivers a short distance away. It quickly grew in importance becoming the capital of Gaul. The city's relevance is evident by the expansive ruins found around the city. The theatre built into Fourvière hill is the best preserved and is still used for concerts and cultural events in Lyon. Immediately next to it is the odeon, a smaller, but functional ampitheater. Scant remains of baths sit nearby.
It's neighbor wasn't missed by Roman occupation. Vienne (confusingly known as Vienna) was eventually subdued and also amassed a wealth of Roman architecture. The intact Temple of Augustus and Livia sits unsuspecting in a pleasant piazza surrounded by cafes and businesses. Above the temple, a well preserved theater scrambles up the hill. In the summer, it serves the jazz festival, however, it is still viewable from above. Across the river is the massive Gallo-Romano Museum, a seven acre site with extensive ruins and a first class museum featuring large mosaics and other artifacts recovered by archeaologists. A suspended (and accessible) walkway allows visitors to admire finds from above.
During Roman rule, Christianity came to the area in the second century via settlers from Greece. There was at least a deacon of Vienne who was martyred in Lyon in 177. But persecution would not deter the spread of Christianity in the area. Both Lyon and Vienne became bishoprics in the early church, one of whom became the twelfth century pope, Callixtus II.
Saint-Pierre-le-Bas in Vienne is one of the oldest extant churches in France. It was constructed in the fifth century within the Roman walls to house the remains of bishops. Within a century, the church had added an abbey which continued for over a millenia. The church nave was expanded in the 11th and 12th century. Artwork from this period is still visible. After the revolution, the building became a museum saving it from harm.
The Medieval Period
As Roman rule slowly drained away, the area came under Burgundian rule and vacillated between the overlordship of the Holy Roman Empire and French crown. Lyon was a crossroads of opposing factions and its strategic position maintained its significance. The height of English territorial expansion into France saw Lyon's neighbor Auvergne under the influence of London.
Around this time, both towns got busy with cathedral building. Archbishop Léger (1030-70) reinvented the Vienne cathedral. Subsequent additions lasted through the 13th century rendering the final product a lovely mix of Romanesque and early Gothic. Perhaps the best feature is the staircased terrace that rises up from river below. In the same period (1180-1476), the Cathedral of Lyon was reconstructed. It, too, lined the river, but the apse is close to the shore while the facade faces inland. Like its sister in Vienne, the Lyon cathedral is a blend of Romanesque and Gothic design.
This crossroads of Germanic, French, and English influence gave rise to Raymond Bertrand de Got, eventually to become Pope Clement V. Born in Aquitaine and an English subject as the Bishop of Bordeaux, he had been a longtime friend of Philip IV the Fair of France. After a year long papal vacancy due to fighting between the French and Italians factions, Clement emerged victorious. He was informed of his election in Vienne in 1305. Clement made the unprecedented decision not to hold his papcy in Rome, but settled in Avignon, kicking off the Babylonian Captivity which would last for most of the 14th century and have far-reaching implications for Western European relations. Not be to outdone, at the Council of Vienne (1311-12) Pope Clement V formally abolished the Knights Templars at the Cathedral.
At this time, Lyon was annexed to France by Philip the Fair. While a blow to self-governance, royal patronage gave the artists and poets of the city much needed support and fueled the Renaissance in Lyon. It was also the site of one of the earliest printing presses in France. Great works were made available in a number of languages. Vienne clung to its independence until 1449. It was the wrong time for concession - the Wars of Religion were very difficult for the town and saw its defenses scrapped.
Modernization
The economic benefits of the Gère River kept Vienne afloat as it powered printing presses, textiles, and foundries. Lyon also benefitted from industrial works, most importantly textiles. Lyon identified with the conservative side and suffered greatly during the Revolution with many deaths. But the city scored a major win, when Napoleon imposed court dress rules - the demand for Lyon silks exploded.
As is so often the case, some of the best food came from this vibrant working class. The Lyonais cuisine is a unique mix of tThe Cervelle de canut (silk worker's brains) is a delicious mix of a young white cheese mixed with chopped herbs and shallots, dressed with oil and vinegar. Quenelles Nantua is a type of fluffy fish cake in a rich fish broth.
Comments