There is some disagreement about exactly which city Orvieto was under Etruscan rule. Most likely it was the twelfth of the great cities, known as Velzna (other suggested locations have been nearby Bolsena and Montefalscone). What is certain, is that there are substantial Etruscan ruins within and around the city including a necropolis, large amounts of pottery and jewelry, and multiple wells dug into the tuff below the city's feet.
Etruscan Orvieto is visible in several places - the necropolis complexes on either side of town, the Etruscan museum of Claudio Faina and the National Archaeological Museum both near the Duomo, and Pozzo della Cava.
The necropoli are probably the least accessible for young children (but lovely time outdoors), the others are great for families! The underground tour is easily accessed by children - it is well-signed, well-lit, and easy to walk through. For those with a bit of reading, there is a handy children's guide. My kids loved it! The Archaeological doesn't have a specific children's program, but the large glass cases made viewing easy for my littles who enjoyed a brief stop. The museum of Claudio Faina also has a tour just for kids (in Italian and English) to help bring the story of ancient Orvieto to life. One added bonus of the Claudio Faina is the breathtaking views of the Duomo facade over the museum's three stories.
Orvieto has had a long relationship with the papacy as a retreat from Rome, especially during the medieval period when Rome was in decay and under near constant threat. At the end of the 6fh century, Pope Gregory I took up residence here when Orvieto was thriving under Lombard control. Adrian IV revived that tradition in the 12th century by fortifying the city. Two popes later, Gregory IX founded the Dominican school of theology, one of the first in Europe.
But the area became more important in the doctrinal battle of transubstantiation, the belief that the sacraments during Communion turn into the body and blood of Christ. The Fourth Lateran Council in 1215 had cemented this practice into church law, but dissent remained. A little over fifty years later, a Bohemian priest, Peter, was performing mass in nearby Bolsena. The sacraments dripped blood over the altar cloth. Astounded, Peter rushed to show Pope Urban IV at Orvieto who declared the feast of Corpus Christi in 1264 and pledged a new duomo to Orvieto (sorry Bolsena). Interestingly, Urban had ties to Liege where Corpus Christi already had some following thanks to a visionary, Juliana.
Whatever the lore, plans for Orvieto's grand cathedral moved forward and the reliquary is still extant today. Pope Nicholas IV laid the first stone in 1290 and work began under Arnolfo di Cambio (also the builder of the Florence Duomo). The stripe edifice slowly took shape In the 14th century, the bas reliefs on the facade were added to depict the story of Creation through the Last Judgement.
The papacy was so entrenched in Orvieto during this period, that in 1271, Gregory X welcomed Edward I of England upon his return from the crusades. Around this time, certainly by 1273, a papal palace had begun (now housing the duomo museum).
Other traces of flourishing urban life were left in the enormous palazzi spread around the city and in the underground tunnels where wells were expanded, kiln remains are visible, and rubbish bins were dug.
Modest updates continued throughout the Renaissance and Baroque periods. Of these, the Chapel of the Madonna di San Brizio is a crowning achievement covered in detailed frescos begun by Fra Angelico and completed by Signorello.
There are also a series of statues in the nave featuring the apostles. Commissioned throughout the 16th and 17th centuries, they were stored for many years before restoration and installation in 2019.
Logistics
The Carta Orvieto Unica is €25 per person, under 10s are free. Older children, students, and seniors €20. It gives you access to all the sites in the city as well as discounts at partner hotels and restaurants. They also have three partial passes, but none included all the sites we wanted to visit. If you think you may breakeven, go ahead and get one. It allows you to pop into a site that you might not want to pay for.
If you are arriving by train to Orvieto Scalo, the funicular will whisk you up into the town for €1,50. If you have the Orvieto card, the funicular is included. This is a free lot at the Parcheggio Funicolare as well as a Hertz office if you choose to pick up a car in Orvieto. The parking garage at the opposite end of town, Parcheggio Orvieto Percorso Meccanizzato, is paid, but also monitored as well as covered. A free elevator whisks you up to town.
Accomodations
On our first visit to Orvieto, we stayed at La Magnolia. The property is right next to the Duomo. The service was wonderful. The rooms were pleasant and were air-conditioned (important for a summer visit). It still has excellent reviews, but they didn't have rooms available for our family and we opted for a self-catering place (just easier with littles!)
This time, we rented a two-bedroom apartment called Il Rifugio Della Cava. Traditionally decorated two bedroom apartment on a quiet street close to all that Orvieto has to offer. The host was very kind, providing us with directions for the parking and promptly met us at the house. Our host put two large waters in the fridge and had coffees and teas ready for our use as well. It is up one flight of stairs (not as issue for us). The kitchen was very well stocked making it easy to self-cater in the evenings. The two twin beds and the availability of a crib is a big win for families. The master bedroom is a nice size for the historic center. I would happily stay here again
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