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Overview of Yorkshire

Hayley Lester

Perhaps nowhere in England better represents the rich history of the Isles. Roman, Saxon, Norman, and modern additions are all on display in Yorkshire from architecture to language.


When the Romans arrived, a celtic tribe called the Parisi ruled modern day Yorkshire. The invaders rapidly set up forts establishing Eboracum, now York, in 71AD. In the fourth century, Roman rule had declined and was replaced by the Angles, Germanic immigrants from the modern day border of Denmark and Germany. Their descendents established the Kingdom of Northumbria with York as a major city including the building of the first stone Yorkminster along with its still extant school, St. Peter's est 627, the third oldest school in the world.


But the idyll was shattered with incessant Viking raids at the turn of the ninth century. Raids would eventually turn into settlement and York became the capital of the Kingdom of Jorvik. The century long rule of the Vikings in Yorkshire left a last impact on the language of the area. The Yorkshire dialect is a mix of Old English and Scandinavian influences. There are two main variations, one running along the coast into Lincolnshire and one running down the center of England. Many Yorkshire towns have retained their Scandinavian names (look for those ending in "by" - Whitby, Kirby, Shelby). "Gate" comes from the Norse for road and many ancient streets still retain names like Micklegate and Walmgate. Others have Anglican endings, those with ending with "ton" indicates a settlements (same root for our word town) and "ham" for a homestead.


The historical county of York retained its three ridings until relatively recently. Riding comes from a Norse word for a third and represented traditional administration areas. Within these, there were Wapentakes, many of which still exist - they are the cousin of Hundreds in southern England. Yorkshire was divided into three areas outside of the city of York, the West, East, and North. Until recent changes "South Yorkshire" didn't exist.


The West Riding of Yorkshire grew exponentially with industrialization and in the late nineteenth century was dissolved into five councils to handle the booming populations of Leeds, Bradford, and Sheffield. Parts of the traditional West Riding were incorporated into Cumbria. Later Sheffield and its nearby towns of Rottenham and Doncaster were created into South Yorkshire. On the eastern edge of West Riding, other towns (Harrogate and Skipton) were adopted into the North in the twentieth century. The North Riding has grown substantially with additions from its neighbor Ridings, including Selby from the East, and the incorporation of York. The East continues to make up the southeastern portion of the country to the north of Humber anchored by the city of Hull. Most of the area is rural with coastal villages and modest towns nestled in rolling hills.


Yorkshire's natural beauty is reknowned. There are two national parks, North York Moors in the northeast and Yorkshire Dales in the west. They, respectively, include the Howardian Hills and Nidderdale Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty. The North Pennines and the Peak District also lie partially within Yorkshire. There are endless walks of wildly differing durations and difficulty to entertain all levels of outdoorsmen. With young children, we prefer to keep to shorter walks and have this handy guide as well as this one. Two of our favorite walks are the very short loop to the Hadraw Force and the longer stroll from Aysgarth. For a more thorough look, check out the Bradt guide for the Dales, recently updated.


For a beautiful coastal walk, the path between Whitby and Robin Hood's Bay is spectacular. It is lengthy (7 miles) for young children so plan accordingly. The ascent and descent into the towns are the most difficult while the middle portion is gentle. Walk one way and catch the 20 minutes bus ride in the other direction. The local tourist site has a good outline.


If you aren't a walker, there are some of the must stunning trainrides in Britain that cut through the Yorkshire countryside. Both the Settle to Carlisle line is outstanding, chugging over graceful bridges and through the moors and dales. The most famous is the Ribblehead Viaduct between the Dent and Ribblehead stations on the Carlisle line. Train lovers shouldn't miss the steam line between and the Whitby to Pickering. The station at Pickering is delightfully restored to its 1930's glory. For those wild about trains, plan a visit to the National Rail Museum in York. It is currently undergoing an extensive expansion project to house its 100 trains and 6,000 artifacts. Truly a transport lover's paridise.


Aside from natural beauty, the lasting imprint of man throughout the centuries leaves an impressive architectural trail behind. Scatterings of Roman edifices exist throughout Yorkshire. At Aldborough, just to the north of Harrogate, are a collection of impressive mosaics, while throughout York remnants (and incoporporations) of Roman walls and baths can still be seen. The Roman Bath pub in York has the baths within their basement, on view for a nominal fee. York also houses a major museum called JORVIK Viking Center that centers around the Viking rule in the area. As the Vikings builts predominantly in wood, their trace is more difficult to see, but the museum's recreations bring the period to life for children and adults alike.


Yorkshire was home to numerous castles and monasteries in the middle ages. The ruins run from piles of rocks to haunting silhouettes to extant structures. Many are maintained by English Heritage and a visitors pass gives you access to most. Among the monastic ruins, Bolton, Fountains, and Rievaulx have the most to see. Mount Grace Priory is interesting as the best preserved Carthusian monastery in England.


There are a few dozen castles in Yorkshire in varying states. Bolton Castle is a beautiful example of an intact medieval construction and served as a prision for the infamous Mary, Queen of Scots. Clifford's Tower in York is much more somber as the site of a horrific Jewish massacre, but an important less in anti-semitism and racism. Conisborough dates back to Harold Godwinson although the current structure is Norman. It served as inspiration for Ivanhoe by Sir Walter Scott. Middleham will intrigue any War of Roses fans as the childhood home to Richard III. The exhibit does a very good job outlining the period and the views of the dales are inspiring. Ripley Castle is privately owned and still serves as a residence, but offers outdoor sports and concerts for guests. Likewise Skipton Castle is also privately owned and impressively complete. It is well worth a tour to view what life looked like several hundred years ago.


Last, but certainly not least, is the agricultural heritage of the area. Sheep farming is still a major player from wool production to cheese. Don't miss a tour of the famous Wensleydale Creamery in Hawes to see cheese making in action and to sample the fruits of labor. At Balloon Tree near York, you can pick your own berries during the summer months. Their bakery and shop also feature produce from local farms. If you are thirsty, check out one of Yorkshire's many breweries. The Black Sheep Brewery tours is one of our favorites and family friendly. The kitchen is also quite good so you can enjoy a pint and a tasty meal. Vegan and gluten-free menus are available, too. Reservations recommended during summer months.


There is plenty in Yorkshire to keep all interests occupied for weeks. Pick a base and dig in to the local culture and beautiful sites.

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