I will readily admit that I have often looked at Pisa with skepticism. Nothing seemed particularly spectacular driving in. It reminded me of Deer Park, Houston with its industrial areas, brackish waters, and work-a-day population. Its Field of Miracles, the site of the Leaning Tower and associated attractions, teems with huge tour groups and lots of peddlers shoving tacky trinkets in your face. The first time we went, we looked at each other and said, nope! Not our thing.
But that was before Luminara.
Now, we know after years in Italy that every town has its own unique, occasionally quirky, tradition. They are always steeped in almost absurd amounts of history, a spree for good humor and partaking with friends, and sweeping tourists in when they are present. But, Luminaria is unique in how incredibly beautiful it is. Celebrated on the eve of the feast day of San Ranieri, the patron saint of Pisa, the illumination of the city takes place on June 16th. On the saint’s feast day, a grand regatta takes place on the Arno as it weaves through Pisa.
The tradition dates back to 1688 when the Medicis (yup, those guys again. Pisa had been under Florentine rule since the early sixteenth century) interred San Ranieri's urn at the duomo. To do so, a great illumination took place and continued at regular intervals, becoming an annual event in the early nineteenth century. The city celebrates annually on the eve of their saint's feast day by lighting riverside buildings with candlelight. Racks are hung in the windows with thousands upon thousands of glistening tapers and tea lights reflecting gently on the Arno below. Hauntingly beautiful, the candlelight is a transport into a world before electricity, a viewpoint into what this town has looked like for centuries.
Luminara has suffered several interruptions - during World War II, after the Arno's great flood of 1966 and subsequent rebuilding, and, most recently in 2020 and 2021 for Covid. As a result, this year was back with a bang, almost seemingly marking the end to two very long and hard years. This year felt as though it was a celebration to the end of Covid restrictions and challenges as much as a celebration of the reverance of the patron saint.
Pisans camp out along the wide stone walls lining the river, eating picnics together as the sky grows dark. The wide boulevards on either side of the Arno are turned into pedestrian havens with family and friends marking passeggiata (the evening stroll) in the candlelight. Vendors come of out of the woodworks selling drinks, snacks, balloons, and lightup swords and crowns. Merrymaking abounds.
During our first Luminara, the Field of Miracles had some candles light along the base of the towers and paths, but this year, the buildings were lit artificially, those beautifully austere. The cathedral is undergoing restoration which may have easier explained the absence of open flame. If you do visit the Duomo complex, check beforehand as there are several extra services in the few days leading up to the Feast Day of San Ranieri on June 17th. You can peer into the cathedral during a service, but you won't be able to access or appreciate it fully.
Reservations for dinner are essential if you want to sit to eat dinner or you can grab a panini or pizza slice and mull amongst the locals. In order not to miss the lighting, eat early (most restaurants open at 7 or 7:30 in the evening). I highly recommend Radici - good food, wonderful service, and a view of the river, but out of the main tourist area.
Parking at the train station is easy, but be warned it is a fair hike to the tower and duomo. If you arrive by train, give yourself ample time (and good shoes) to cross the town. We prefer to park close to the cathedral complex. When coming off the highway from Florence, take the exit past the airport and follow signs for "Torre Pendente" which is the Leaning Tower although my three year old prefers "Torre Rotta" meaning the broken tower. There is also a large parking lot for the hospital which is in the same area.
Word to the wise, the streets can get very crowded. Pisa is a university town and students are out in full force for the fireworks. With a young family, know that it can be a bit overwhelming and loud! We love to go early and get out of there by about 9:30 in the evening when the younger crowd starts getting boisterous.
There are disability accomodations are available. This year it was by the Renaioli stopover with reserved spaces. The official tourism site for Pisa posts current information about events and is an excellent resource to check if you plan to attend in 2023 or subsequent years.
If you ever find yourself in Italy in mid-June, do not miss an opportunity to visit Pisa on the 16th - its a magical moment to be a part of Toscana!
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