There were roughly 100 monastical establishments founded in Yorkshire during the medieval period. Some have left no discernable trace while others were converted into parish churches and manor houses. Others fell into ruin after the dissolution of monasteries by Henry VIII when they were stripped of their wealth and lead roof cladding. When romanticism swept through England, these ruins fueled inspiration for artists and authors and became tourist hotspots.
Quite a few monastical sites are managed by English Heritage and are free for members. Most are covered in the overseas visitors pass including Rievaulx. Remember that CADW and Historic Scotland Members gets 50% off entrance the first year of membership (and free membership with subsequent renewals).
History of Rievaulx
Rievaulx (pronouced ree-voh) was founded in 1132 as the second Cistercian monastery in England and the first in Northern England. Cistercians sought unpopulated areas for their houses both for economy and ease of legal complications.
The early days of the Conquest brought a monastical boom. At the time of the Doomsday book, written in 1086, there were only three religious houses listed. Rievaulx was the ninth established and twenty years later there were already thirty. Rievalux was joined in Yorkshire by three other Cistercian foundations, Fountains, Roche, and Kirkstall.
Rievaulx's patron, Walter Espec, Lord of Helmsley, was an active and wealthy supporter of ecclesiastical reform. His donated 1,000 acres to begin the monastery near his castle along the Rye River. The Abbey's name come from the site (Rie for the Rye and vaulx meaning valley). The first Abbot was a Yorkshire man, William, educated at York and trained at Clairvaux in France. His great energy and capability allowed Rievaulx to expand from thirty founding members to more than 300 men at his death 13 years later. His successor was shortlived, but did manage to absorb rival monastical land from Byland, forcing the order to move to the present site and expanding the lands by 30 percent. It was the third Abbot, Aelred that rocketed Rievaulx into the limelight. A well-known and respected man, he ran the Abbey for twenty years and doubled the population. This boom meant building and his penchant for architecture is still visible in the ruins.
Cistercians were self-sufficient houses that didn't rely on tithes or regular bequests. Instead, they operated granges, smaller farms away from the main house that provided income and food to support monastical life. At its peak, Rievaulx had twenty granges, most clustered near the Abbey itself. In the thirteenth century, monasteries within England's growing cities became more popular and pulled. Declines in lay brothers (those not in orders) led to granges being rented out to support the ecclesiastical work.
Economic woes continued to beset Rievaulx. The most violent episode was in 1322 when Kind Edward II was in residence. He and his army were defeated by the Scots at the Battle of Byland and withdrew to York leaving the monastery vulnerable. The Scots plundered the Cistercians and seized a portion of the treasury that Edward had left behind. A mere two decades later, the Black Death swept through England, depleting the monastic population and that of the farm laborers.
The economy stabilized, but the size of the house was much diminished from its glory days. Buildings were altered or demolished to fit the reduced population. By Rievaulx's suppression in 1538, only 125 men remained. The site was promptly sold to the 1st Earl of Rutland. In an effort to catalog his new possessions, the Earl made three inventories which shed rare light on the twilight hours of Rievaulx and the construction of the extant buildings.
The lands around the Rye Valley and the ruins of the Abbey were sold to the Charles Duncombe who built a large country home nearby along with a terrace to enjoy the views of Rievaulx below. The terrace houses two temples, the Doric Temple with relaid tiles from Rievaulx and a second temple, the Tuscan Temple, with relaid thirteenth century floors from nearby Byland Abbey. They give you a sense of what Rievaulx's might have looked. The terrace can be visited and is managed by the National Trust.
The Buildings
The tour begins through the west door of the church. At the entrance, it is possible to see the remains of the mosaic tiled floor that would have covered the nave. To the right, is the oldest part of the abbey, the West Range. Here the ground floor serveed as a refectory and cellar for the kitchens while the upper level served as dormitories. Unvaulted and lacking decoration, the west range shows the austerity of the early Cistercians.
The western half of the nave up to the crossing was build by the third abbot, Aelred. Sadly little remains of the oldest part of the church. You can make out the massive column bases and the stubs of the chapel walls. The change of the stone color clearly shows visitors where the reconstruction and expansion in the thirteenth century took place. Despite the lack of the roof, the crossing and eastern end are intact.
The crossing was capped by a bell tower with a steeple that had collapsed based on the Suppression Inventories. The trancepts pushed out existing chapels during the expansion of the church, but oddly don't have the same design. Despite evidence to support vaulting, they were finished in timbered roofs.
The presbytery in the Eastern end shows the shift in architecture from the early days of the Abbey. Three stories of graceful arched windows and soaring vaulting show off Gothic architecture admirably. The extension housed the shrine of the third Abbot who was canonised in 1250. Interestingly, the addition was down prior to the church wall being removed. An error was made and the arch closest to the crossing was constricted. It's narrower width is most notable in the second story of windows where, instead of two lancets, there is a single opening.
Returning back to the West Range, you find yourself amongst the remains of the cloister that connected monastical life today. The dormitory, kitchen, the washroom, and refectory line the West and South walls. The shell of the refectory remains along with traces of pink paint, a hint at once elaborate decoration. The large windows would've let in plenty of light into the dining hall. A warming house abutted the refectory where a fire burned from All Saints Day (Nov 1) through Good Friday.
Turning up the east side, you walk along the treasury and then the chapter house. Although little stands today, you can make out its unusual shape - quite long and rounded at the eastern end. A few tiles combine with grass to make up the floor.
To the southeast of the cloister likes the infirmary with the remnants of its own cloister. Monastical houses provided healthcare to the surrounding populace and nutured medical studies of the period. Next door, the remains of the abbot's house are visible. Most remarkable it the tannery. Although commonplace, few have survived. Originally the Rye flowed just by here before it was later diverted to the south.
The meadow allows for ample opportunities to stroll. There is a cafe with gluten-free and vegetarian options and picnic tables for meals as well as a small museum showing artifacts and the history of Rievaulx. While the sites is sloped and has some steps, there is signage to aid in accessibility for a stroller or wheelchair. If possible, a carrier or light walker would be easier to navigate the gravel paths. There is not a youth audio guide, but staff does have family trail map with activities for children. Dogs are also welcome. Confirm seasonal openings times here.
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