Safi is one of the oldest cities in Morocco as it was founded by the Carthaginians. It became more important under the Almohad Empire with stretched from Southern Spain across northwestern Africa. Their capital was Marrakech with Safi serving as a port. The Portuguese took over in the 16th century. They began an ambitious building project with a castle on the coast and a cathedral, the first Manueline building in Africa. However, the Portuguese found Safi difficult to defend from land attacks and were pushed out by Saadians. Safi continued to thrive as a port until the 18th century. The famous 1755 Lisbon earthquake caused damage in Morocco as well. Leader Mohammed bin Abdallah set about rebuilding damaged towns. While he was at it, he redeveloped Essaouira (then called Mogador) as the main port in Morocco.
Today, Safi is well known in Morocco for its thriving port and fishery as well as phosphate exports and pottery. The National Museum of Ceramics is here (open every day except Tuesday, signage in French and Arabic) and a Portuguese fortress that is undergoing works currently.
Safi isn't really on the tourism trail. The old medina is much less commercialized than those in other popular tourism spots and provides a real look into Moroccan life. The shops generally follow one street with homes and riads lining the offshooting paths. Within the medina is the remains of the Portuguese cathedral and a synagogue for Safi's previously notable Jewish population. It is estimated that as many as 20% of the local populace was Jewish prior to independence. Post-war most of the population relocated to Israel or to France.
To the north of the town is a wide sandy beach. There is a taxi stand by the entrance for those not wanting to walk from the old town. The Safi Surf Club has lockers and showers for rent as well as a cafe and swim lessons. Other snack kiosks dot the back of the beach. Further up the coast is the beautiful Lalla Fatna beach, accessible by car or taxi.
Where to Eat:
Restaurant Chez Hosni is tucked away in the pottery market just north of the medina. Enjoy fish tangine served on locally made pottery
La Septieme Vauge is just around the corner from Hosni. The rooftop is a perfect place to catch the sunset over the city and same the classic sardine meatball tangine
Le Rooftop restaurant is perched on the rooftop of a building at the cornice overlooking the sea. Floor cushions give it a bohemian feel. Tasty burgers and a good brunch! Even on a warm day, the breeze is cooling.
Where to Stay: We stayed in the Riad Cheval Blanc within the medina and would recommend it! They have one family room with a bunk bed as well as several double rooms. Some rooms can have a cot added as well. Enjoy a very tasty breakfast complete with fresh msemmen bread and eggs with a rooftop view overlooking the sea.
Getting here: Safi is connected to Casablanca and Marrakech by train (change in Benguerir). There is a bus from Essaouria and El Jadida as well.
Good to Know: As Safi is a bit less used to tourism, modest dress and a headscarf is advisable. On the beach, longer swim shorts and a rashguard would be more comfortable.
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