Stirling has long been one of the most important historical sites in Scotland. Just 30 minutes by train from Glasgow (and 50m from Edinburgh), it is well worth a day out (or more), to explore!
Things to do:
Explore Stirling Castle, home to the Scottish monarchy for five centuries
Gaze at the mighty hammerbeam roof in the Renaissance Great Hall
Learn about the castle's military role in the Argyll and Sutherland Highlanders
Wander the well-preserved medieval and renaissance streets of Stirling
Admire the Church of Holy Rood, home to baptisms and coronations of the Scottish monarchs
Stroll across the now pedestrianized Old Stirling Bridge, the approximate site of the Battle of Stirling Bridge where Wallace repelled the English
Visit the Battle of Bannockburn Experience (a 10m bus ride) to learn about this significant battle that routed the English during the Wars of Independence
Don't miss the massive Robert de Bruce statue here
Take the bus up to the Wallace Monument for fantastic views
Stirling has been occupied for millennia, but the first report of a castle on the site dates to the turn of the 12th century. Its strategic position on a volcanic crag and location within the Scottish kingdom made it a favorite of the monarchy as well as a focus during the Scottish Wars of Independence.
Most of what we see at the castle now dates to the Renaissance under the direction of James V, Mary Queen of Scots' father. He commissioned the massive Great Hall which was completely restored and opened in 2011. It is unusual because of its yellow lyme wash, referred to as King's Gold.
It served as the childhood home to Mary Queen of Scots and to her son, James VI of Scotland. He resided here until 1603 when he inherited the crown of England through his great-aunt, Elizabeth I. After the move of the monarchy to the South, Stirling was an active military barracks and eventual home of the Argyll and Sutherland Highlanders. Their museum is within the castle grounds and reopened in 2021 after a major refurbishment.
The renovation and restorations allowed for improvements in accessibility. For the areas of the castle that are not accessible, Stirling has created an Access Gallery in the Palace Vaults allowing mobility impaired guests to explore. Here there is also an interactive area with costumes and instruments. Sensory kits are available and social stories are provided online to prep for your visit.
After seeing the Castle, wander into the town for a bite to eat and head to Holy Rood, now the parish church of Stirling. The first church burnt down in 1405 and was quickly rebuilt. It was here that Mary Queen of Scots was baptised and her son James VI was crowned.
To round out the day, catch the bus for a short 10 minutes ride to the Battle of Bannockburn. While the castle has been the site of many battles, it is hard to argue that Bannockburn was one of the most significant in the Scottish ethos.
A heavily outnumbered band of Scottish warriors, led by Robert the Bruce, soundly defeated the English, killing or capturing many of the nobles of the day. While it did not secure recognition of an independent Scotland, the battle did effectively remove any significant military efforts for two decades and allowed Bruce to shore up the Scottish throne.
There is a very thorough information center and a large park where the battle might have taken place (historians aren't sure where along the Bannock river the battle took place). Every June 24, events are scheduled to commemorate the battle. Next summer (2024) will be the 710th anniversary complete with reenactments of the day which is fun for the whole family.
Scottish Wars of Independence and Bannockburn
The Battle of Bannockburn was one of the most important military battles in Scottish history. It occurred during the First War of Scottish Independence which spanned nearly 50 years. The wars were kicked off when King Alexander III of Scotland died in 1286 leaving the throne to his three year old granddaughter, Margaret. Edward I of England has just finished hammering the Welsh and was looking further up the Isles. He promptly betrothed his heir, another Edward to Margaret, but she died en route from Norway.
No clear heir remained kicking off a succession crisis. Edward presided over claimaints and in the interregnum, he took over Scottish castles. Ultimately Balliol was selected over the Bruce family. Edward hoped he would be a puppet king, but Balliol was made of stronger stuff. Peace grated as Edward essentially reduced Scotland to a vassal state. Balliol made a treaty of mutual support with the French (the Auld Alliance).
Infuriated, Edward marched north and defeated the Scots at Dunbar. Balliol abdicated and was imprisoned in the Tower of London. But it didn’t solve the problem. The Scots continued to fight, most notably under William Wallace as the brief guardian of Scotland, suceeded jointly by John Comyn and Robert de Bruce. Wallace defeated the English at the Battle of Stirling Bridge in 1297 taking Stirling Castle from the English.
Four years later, Stirling was one of the last holdouts. Edward attacked with his legendary trebuchet, Warwolf, in 1303 and it was back to the English for the next decade. Things continued downhill. Wallace was captured and executed in 1305. Robert de Bruce murdered Comyn in a church in 1306 over a dispute, crowned himself, but was driven from the mainland a few months later, his wife and daughter imprisoned.
But the Scots had a stroke of luck when Edward I died in 1307. His son, Edward II, was embroiled in internal struggles for the first few years of his reign and had little time for Scotland. Bruce seized the advantage and slowly began retaking ground. In 1314, Edinburgh castle was taken back and Stirling was cutoff. The castle’s custodian wrote to Edward asking for reinforcements.
Edward amassed troops and headed north. There were a few notable absences, including one of the most important and experienced peers, Thomas of Lancaster. He had murdered Edward’s favorite in 1312 and the two were hardly on speaking terms. Warwick, Arundel, Surrey, and Percy also did not participate which put a dent in English military experience at the frontlines.
Despite those who “sat out,” Edward arrived at Stirling with roughly 20,000 men, three to four times what Scotland had. But the Scottish had the upperhand with terrain. Below Stirling Castle runs the Bannock Burn, a stream cutting through a marshy field. No one is really sure where the battle was - it is generally agreed that the visitor’s center is in the wrong spot.
Bruce’s force setup by a woodland which blunted the English calvary. The first day, a English noble spotted Bruce ill-equipped and charged, but Bruce killed him in a single blow. The second day, a defector informed Bruce of England’s low morale. The Scottish struck driving the English back towards the burn and a retreat began with the Scots in hot pursuit across boggy ground, killing many.
Bannockburn had some long reaching consequences. The English losses were staggering, not only in sheer numbers, but in men of importance. Several great families were snuffed out and plenty more imprisoned. Edward’s internal struggles with his lords continued, exacerbated by the disaster in Scotland and his continual favorites which ultimately created a short-lived civil war. The resources to retake Scotland were tied up internally
Bannockburn did not cement Scotland’s independence on paper, but in practice, it allowed for Bruce to shore up his throne. Scotland was left alone for the most part until Edward’s son came to the throne. It also created a David and Goliath story for the Scottish ethos which continues to be celebrated today.
The Wars in Film: Braveheart (1995) and The Outlaw King (2018)
Braveheart is the best known movie about the period. While entertaining, the epic is quite liberal with the facts and with the timeline. This period is my speciality so it really gets my goat.
Battle of Stirling Bridge doesn’t even feature a bridge - the key point of the battle and the reason for victory as the English couldn’t easily cross or retreat
Wallace & Isabella Affair didn’t happen. Isabella was a child during Falkirk and didn’t set foot in England until 1308, 3 years after Wallace’s execution. Her son, Edward, was born four years later
A Military Mastermind Wallace wasn’t noble or military mind. He was quite good at managing the big personalities around him, but his lack of military strategy cost him the battle of Falkirk. His refusal to surrender, capture, and execution grew into legend
Edward I: Tyrant and R@pist. He was ruthless, brilliant military commander. Edward had successes in the Holy Land, in Gascony, and in Wales before his invasion of Scotland. He was also a devoted husband - his wife traveled with him almost everywhere and he he no known affairs or any children outside his marriages.
Edward II is Gay: Tons of debate has circulated over the centuries. He probably was bisexual, but was a paragon of manhood, affable, athletic, handsome, and educated. He was not a homophobic feminine trope, and his favorite (Piers not Philip) was not a victim of defenestration.
Costuming: The outfits are a mess. Chain mail was the order of the day. Kilts weren’t worn for until the 16th century and the modern version we think of took a bit longer to evolve.
If you want to watch a more accurate version of events, try The Outlaw King with Chris Pine and Florence Pugh. The movie does a good job of sticking to the facts, if a bit slow at times. The only glaring invention was the presence of Edward II at Loudoun Hill. Although he was involved in his father’s Scottish campaigns, Edward was in southern England at the time. But all the players and events are pretty accurately portrayed based on extant records. And really, the medieval period was pretty wheels off - you don’t need to make stuff up to keep it interesting!
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